How to Install Reconstituted Stone Cladding Step by Step
Quick answer: reconstituted stone cladding is installed much like a thick tile: a clean, sound and level substrate; flexible C2T tile adhesive applied to both the wall and the back of each piece (back-buttering); pieces laid from the bottom up, mixing boxes as you go; a 1 to 1.5 cm joint or tight (butt-jointed) laying depending on the model; then pointing and cleaning while everything is fresh. This guide collects the steps given in the data sheets of the Vetonek cladding models, plus some basic site tips. If your model's data sheet says something different, follow the data sheet.
Before you start: weight and substrate
Reconstituted stone panels are thin (between 1.5 and 3 cm thick for the models that state it) and are bonded to the wall with no structure of their own. Even so, they do not all weigh the same: from 30 kg/m² for Barillas cladding to 48 kg/m² for Ablitas cladding, and up to 66 and 70 kg/m² for the Funes brick-effect and Azagra river-pebble models. The data sheets of several models ask for a sound substrate that can take 30 to 50 kg/m²; for the heaviest ones, a substrate that can take the specific weight of the model. If the wall is old, doubtful, or covered with boards, insulation or another finish, ask your project technician before bonding anything.
Step 1: prepare the substrate
The data sheet of Corella cladding sums it up well: a clean, sound, level substrate such as brick, block or concrete. In practice that means removing dust, loose debris and flaking paint, and correcting any major out-of-plumb areas before you start. If the substrate is very absorbent, the Monteagudo cladding data sheet advises dampening it.
Step 2: set out the layout and mix the boxes
Before bonding, spread pieces from several boxes on the floor and plan the layout. Three guidelines from the data sheets:
- Mix boxes to spread natural variations in tone. Buy all the material in one go: because it contains pigment, a second batch may not match the first.
- With multi-format cladding, alternate lengths and never place two pieces of the same size one above the other.
- With veined and wood-effect pieces, keep the grain running in the same direction and lay the pieces with staggered joints.
Also order 10 % more than the measured m² to cover cuts and breakage. To decide the joint style, make a 1 m² sample first.
Step 3: adhesive and back-buttering
The data sheets specify flexible C2T tile adhesive with the double-buttering technique: the adhesive is spread on the substrate with a notched trowel (the Corella data sheet states 8/10 mm) and a thin layer is also applied to the back of the piece. Work in small areas so the adhesive does not dry before the pieces are set.
Step 4: lay from the bottom up, with joints or butt-jointed
Start with the bottom course, check it is level and work upwards course by course. The spacing depends on the model:
- Joint of approx. 1 cm: Corella, Ablitas, Monteagudo or Cintruénigo, using spacers.
- Joint of 1 to 1.5 cm: Lerín, Andosilla, Mendavia and the brick-effect slips (joint of approx. 1.5 cm).
- Butt-jointed, no visible joint: the stacked-ledge, split and pebble finishes such as Fustiñana, Barillas, Mélida, Santacara, Cárcar or Azagra.
Cuts are made with an angle grinder and a diamond blade, wearing goggles and a dust mask, and are kept for junctions and edges.
Step 5: corners, pillars and junctions
The data sheets are clear: always start at the corners and work towards the centre of the wall, alternating the orientation of the pieces so the corner interlocks. Almost every model has a matching corner piece, such as the Corella cladding corner, which avoids mitre cuts. To clad a pillar, the Ablitas cladding double corner wraps two edges at once; its data sheet recommends that the inner opening be 1–2 cm wider than the pillar to absorb any out-of-plumb. Where the cladding meets ceilings and frames, the Fustiñana data sheet advises leaving a clean gap of about 5 mm, sealed in the colour of the wall. For mouldings, ornamental plaques and corbels, use high-bond adhesive and, if the piece projects, a concealed mechanical fixing. You will find all of these pieces in our guide to corners, mouldings and special pieces.
Step 6: pointing and cleaning
Once the adhesive has set, point with grout and clean with a damp sponge before it hardens. The joint colour changes the look of the wall a lot: a light joint brightens, a dark one adds depth. For butt-jointed models there is no pointing, only the removal of adhesive residue.
Water repellent and maintenance
The pieces are water-repellent throughout (treated through the whole body, not just the surface). Outdoors, the data sheets of the textured finishes (Barillas, Fustiñana, Azagra, Santacara, Mélida, Cárcar) also recommend a clear water repellent, which brings out the shadows of the relief. On exposed walls, finish the top of the wall properly so water does not run permanently over the cladding. The data sheets give no maintenance plan; in general, it is enough to check joints and edges from time to time and brush off dust with water and a soft-bristle brush.
You can find the models in the range in the Coatings collection and in Facade Stones.
Frequently asked questions
What adhesive should I use for reconstituted stone cladding?
The data sheets specify flexible C2T tile adhesive with double buttering. It is spread on the substrate with a notched trowel and a thin layer is added to the back of the piece; for heavy or projecting decorative pieces, high-bond adhesive and a concealed mechanical fixing are recommended.
Do I need to leave a joint between the pieces?
It depends on the model. Corella, Ablitas, Monteagudo and Cintruénigo are laid with a joint of approx. 1 cm; Lerín, Andosilla and Mendavia with 1 to 1.5 cm; the stacked-ledge, split and pebble finishes are laid butt-jointed, with no visible joint.
Can it be fixed to any wall?
Only to a clean, sound, level substrate that can take the weight of the model, for example brick, block or concrete. If the wall is old, damp or you are unsure about its condition, ask your project technician first.
How are corners and pillars handled?
With the matching corner pieces of each model, which avoid mitre cuts, and with the double corner for pillars where the model has one. You start at the corners and work towards the centre, alternating the orientation of the pieces.
Does the cladding need water repellent after installation?
The pieces are already water-repellent throughout. Outdoors, the data sheets of the textured finishes also recommend a clear water repellent to bring out the shadows of the relief.
If you have not chosen a model yet, start with the guide to types of reconstituted stone cladding or the one on brick-effect stone cladding. Then compare the data sheets of Corella cladding, Ablitas cladding or Fustiñana cladding, and remember to add the corner pieces to your order.
